Our latest featured service is fuel pump replacement on a 2006 Range Rover, brought to us by a client from Dunbar, Vancouver.
2006 Range Rover
This Range Rover arrived at our shop by tow truck following a conversation with our client. He called explaining that his engine was cranking over but would not start. I explained to him that towing the vehicle to the shop was really all that we could offer. This is the case with most modern cars: due to their complexity there is little that one can do on the roadside, though sometimes you get lucky. On a positive note, modern cars break down rarely when compared to cars of the past.
After the vehicle arrived we diagnosed the concern. There are 3 basic things required to make an internal combustion gasoline engine run, assuming of course that the starter is turning the engine over: these are: compression, spark and fuel.
Based on experience we can usually get a pretty good idea of engine compression just by listening to the engine cranking over. In the case of this Range Rover it sounded good.
Next tests were for spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure. Spark and injector pulse were good.
Fuel pressure is tested by connected a fuel pressure gauge to the engine. Here we found no fuel pressure and this was why the engine failed to run.
At this point we were left with a few more tests to see if the pump was dead or there was a wiring or electronic issue present causing the pump not to run.
We verified that all things electrical were good and the pump was dead.
Replacing the fuel pump on this Range Rover is timing consuming due to the use of a saddle tank which incorporates two fuel pickups and gauge sending units. Fortunately the access is under the rear seat which makes the job a little easier.
Access holes to fuel pump (left) and left gauge sender and pickup unit (right)
Fuel pumps on almost all vehicles are located inside the fuel tank. There are several reasons for this: ease of manufacturing being one; the other is a performance advantage to having the pump at the source of the liquid instead of it having to suck the fuel from the tank. This is more efficient and uses less energy
Close up of fuel pump top cap. Note fuel hose and wiring connector
The disadvantage is in the access. As I mentioned this Range Rover is easier due to in car access. Many cars are not so easy: you must remove the fuel tank to change the pump.
New fuel pump assembly for 2006 Range Rover. On right side is the pump and gauge sender, on the left is the secondary pickup and gauge sender.
Should you ever experience your engine cranking over and not starting like this Range Rover did I can offer a couple of tips to you. Be sure to check your fuel gauge. On more than a few occasions we’ve had vehicles towed in with a possible fuel pump concern only to find the tank is empty. How might you know if it is your fuel pump? On most cars when you turn your key to start the fuel pump will run for a couple of seconds and if you listen closely to the underside of your vehicle you can hear a faint humming sound. It can be tricky to hear this but if you can, and you even suspect that you are low on fuel you might be best to get a Jerry can and a few liters of fuel into the tank: it might save you an expensive tow and diagnosis.
One other tip about fuel pumps, and this applies to all cars and light trucks: don’t run your vehicle low on fuel: the moment the low fuel warning light comes on, fill up your tank. Adhering to this will maximize the life of your fuel pump.
Fuel gauge reading empty and warning light on. This is not a good scenario. Do not continuously run your vehicle this low on fuel as it will shorten the life of your fuel pump.
Today's featured service is engine and transmission mount replacement done on a 2006 Acura TL brought to us by a client from Surrey BC.
2006 Acura TL
This service was very interesting for one reason: all 3 engine mounts and all 3 transmission mounts were broken. What is even more amazing is that this vehicle has 6 mounts in total while most cars have only 3 or 4. In spite of this added reinforcement things still came apart.
Most engine mount failures are noted in a car by a vibration or shake. Sometimes it's a clunk when accelerating or decelerating. As you might expect with this car it was much worse. When you shifted the gears from reverse to drive there was an exceptionally loud bang in the car. This was caused by the engine and transmission jumping around in the engine compartment.
This is a very serious condition and one that can cause a lot of damage. It was a small miracle that this vehicle seemed to have sustained no further damage.
Let's looks at the engine mounts. In this photo we see all the mounts laid out in their approximate positions in the engine compartment. The engine mounts are on the right and the transmission mounts are on the left.
Engine mount on right and transmission mounts on left
In this photo I have taken the broken sections of the mounts out so you can see the difference. I can't stress enough how unique this condition is. Having one mount broken apart happens but to have every mount broken is unheard of.
Mounts showing the broken parts
Here's a view of the right side mount first together and then taken apart, the small core piece in the middle was attached to the outer shell by very strong rubber which has been torn apart. This shows how this part is constructed: they all have metal end that bolt to the vehicle body and the engine or transmission and are connected with very strong rubber bonded in between. Some also feature an oil filled section to further cushion the vibrations from the engine.
Broken apart right engine mount
So there you have a brief education about engine mount, especially broken mounts. How long this vehicle had vibrations and clunks is hard to know but I suspect it had been a long time. Likely the owner or drivers of this vehicle drove it very hard.
As I said previously broken engine mounts can cause some very serious and expensive damage. Fortunately for this vehicle owner the mounts were it. He was lucky.
Today’s featured service is brake repairs performed on a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder that was brought to us by a client from the Marpole neighbourhood of Vancouver.
Brake repairs are a frequent service at our shop. Working on Nissan Pathfinders are also a frequent serviced vehicle at our shop. What was unique about this service was the severity of the wear on the front brakes. Our client had brought the vehicle to us at the last possible moment before complete brake failure.
These brakes were so badly worn that the right inboard brake pad had been ground very thin and the pad had slipped out of it’s mounting. The brake caliper pistons were now rubbing against the rotor when the brakes were applied. The subsequent noise was hideous.
How long these brakes were grinding is hard to say but I would imagine it had been quite a long time.
Here is a view of the caliper pistons, severely damaged by rubbing against an already damaged brake rotor. The red arrows point towards the caliper pistons, note the metal filings. The yellow arrow points to the caliper dust boot. This is torn open and will allow water to get into the caliper and seize the piston.
Repairs to these brakes required new brake pads, rotors & calipers. These vehicles feature a captive rotor and that requires the front wheel hub to be removed to facilitate replacement of the rotor. When the hub is removed the wheel bearings are cleaned and repacked.
At Pawlik Automotive we have always taken extra time to thoroughly clean the wheel bearings and hubs before repacking them. This is something that is not done at many other shops. They opt to save time by squeezing out old grease and displacing it with new grease. That works OK but still leaves dirty old grease behind. It’s not the very best way to go. Doing a proper thorough clean ensures that the bearings will last as long as possible.
Here is a photo of 3 brake rotors: on the left lower we have a very rusty inner brake rotor, this was off the left front. This occurs from excessive road salt, sticky brake calipers or just sometimes old age. It is a very poor surface for the brake pad to push against and will drastically affect stopping distance.
The right lower rotor is the severely gouged rotor from the metal backing plate of the inner brake pad and then the caliper pistons.
The upper rotor is brand new. The smooth shinny surface says it all.
A few other items that we addressed with this brake job was a rear brake service and a brake fluid flush.
The rear brakes on this vehicle were in reasonably good condition: the shoes had plenty of material, the drums were good and the wheel cylinders were not leaking and their pistons moved freely. There was a lot of dust and backing plates were rusted. The brake service consists of removing the shoes, springs, hardware and adjusters. All dust is removed, components are lubricated as required and everything is reassembled; the final step it to adjust the brakes.
After repairs this vehicle stopped on a dime and best of all there were no objectionable noises.
While everything is repairable you definitely don’t want to wear your brakes to this extend because it’s downright dangerous.
Our latest feature is a maintenance service performed on a 2013 Toyota Prius V, brought to us by a client from Kensington – Cedar Cottage, Vancouver.
The Toyota Prius V is the third generation of Toyota’s amazing hybrid technology. It features a larger engine than its predecessors which actually improves highway fuel economy. One unique feature of this car is the lack of drivebelts: this is the first production vehicle to come without any. All accessories are electrically operate and this further improves fuel economy.
This vehicle arrived with 21,000 kilometers on the clock and was due for a level 2 service: an engine oil and filter change along with a comprehensive inspection and tire rotation.
The inspection found no concerns and verified that the vehicle was in excellent condition. Being nearly new and being a Toyota this was expected, however it is important to confirm this with regular maintenance.
Modern vehicles are very reliable and certainly don’t break down as they once did. This can lead one to think that they can just be left to drive and this couldn’t be further from the truth. Along with current vehicle’s reliability comes ever increasing complexity and with that very high potential repair costs. You want to do everything in your power to prevent premature wear as it will be very costly. Fortunately routine maintenance is cheap.
Engine compartment of 2013 Toyota Prius V. Gasoline engine is on left and bybrid drive components sit on right. The bright orange cables are hybrid wiring and are clearly marked as such so that safety precautions can be taken when working on this system.
Our featured service is a 2001 Jaguar XKR Convertible Top Fluid Leak Repair, brought to us by a client from Kerrisdale, Vancouver.
2001 Jaguar XKR
One of the frequent failures on the beautiful Jaguar XKR convertible is rupturing of the hydraulic hoses to the convertible top latch. The leak becomes very evident to the owner as green oil leaks out of the top of the windshield/roof front attachment area above the console. The condition is known as the “green shower.” Once this occurs the top will no longer latch and must be moved up and down by hand.
So common is the issue that Jaguar sells a hose repair kit. It comes complete with newly designed lines and all the fittings to couple to the existing hoses down in the door pillar area.
Old hydraulic hoses. If you look closely you can see the plastic jacket of the the hose with the yellow paint is blown open right under the other fitting.
While the repair kit is expensive and the job time consuming it is far easier and significantly less costly than changing the complete hoses to the rear of the vehicle where the hydraulic pump and valves are located.
To complete the service we cleaned the leaked fluid from inside the car. Considering how damaging an oil leak could be to the beautiful interior of this car, things cleaned up well. For the owner no evidence of the leak remained and the roof moved up and down as it was meant to.
Jaguar, for many years had a reputation as a finicky sports car, in the shop more frequently than on the road. With these Ford era Jaguars (1989 to 2008) the cars have become very reliable. As with most fancy European cars, their value slides precipitously and many models can be purchased used for a bargain price. The downside is that repairs can be expensive but if you’re prepared for that, you can drive a very luxurious vehicle for a fraction of the price of a new model.
Convertible top latch mechanism with new hydraulic hoses installed
Talking Mazda with Bernie Pawlik, owner of Pawlik Automotive in Vancouver, 14 time winner of best auto repair in Vancouver.
Mark: Good morning, it’s Mark from Top Local Lead Generation, we’re here with Mr. Bernie Pawlik of Pawlik Automotive. They’re a fourteen time winner of Best Auto Repair in Vancouver. How are you doing today Bernie?
Bernie: Doing awesome. How are you Mark?
Mark: So we’re going to talk about Mazda’s and these are pretty popular cars, especially with the new Madza 3 over the last decade or so. What can you tell us about them?
Bernie: Well, first off, I’ve worked on Mazda’s for years and years and I’ve seen many changes in Mazda cars, they have advanced technology. They’ve always been fairly reliable but I’ve always thought of them as a little bit under Toyota and Nissan, in terms of quality and reliablity, and maybe that’s not true, and Honda to boot, but they’re excellent cars – overall I think they’re great.
Mark: So over the years, I’ve seen a number of similar Mazda and Ford vehicles. What’s going on there?
Bernie: Well at one time Ford owned, until recently, they owned 7% of Mazda so they build some vehicles together which is probably a good idea to create a partnership there. Ford had divested a lot of their stock in Mazda. They still own a tiny bit but they don’t seem to build anything together anymore.
But some of the vehicles that have been outstanding over the years, the Ford small pickup trucks and the Mazda truck are essentially the same truck. The Mazda B series and the Ford Ranger – they’re similar trucks. They have made a reliable, again Japanese vehicles tend to be, I’ve always thought, more reliable than American cars, maybe not recently, but over a couple decades past. So it offered Ford a good, reliable Japanese vehicle and the Ford Probe and Mazda MX6, were a nice sporty car that was a combined effort. The main thing about these combined vehicles, is that you could often buy the Ford product on the used market, for substantially cheaper than the Mazda vehicle – just because it’s an American vehicle it appreciates faster. So if you could buy one of these Mazda Fords, you have a very reliable vehicle for a lot less money than the Mazda vehicle.
One thing that we’ve found over the years is that the parts for these cars, especially if you buy them from the Mazda dealer were often cheaper than buying them from the Ford dealer. Seems like Ford bought the parts from Mazda and just marked them up.
I think that’s one advantage with dealing with an independent auto repair shop is that you get the, we source parts and we offer the best price to our customers, whereas if you went to the Ford dealer, you’d be paying a lot more money for the parts.
Mark: So we’re experiencing a little bit of busy-ness even this early in the morning, which is great.
Bernie: I don’t know if you hear me with all that phone ringing?
Mark: Yeah we did. So what about Mazda’s current vehicles? How are they?
Bernie: Awesome. You know, I think the Mazda 3 is an awesome vehicle, very popular. We work on a lot of those vehicles. They’ve been out for over a decade now and they’re just super, reliable cars. We’ve yet to see one with a bad engine or transmission. I haven’t seen one burning oil which is really a good sign. There are a few issues with them – check engine light comes on for a few different components of fail, but nothing that’s really overly expensive to fix. They’re one of those cars, almost like a Toyota Corolla where you could actually predict how much money you’re going to spend every year on maintenance and repairs which is really nice to have a car like that.
Mazda makes a variety of other vehicles, they have their sport utility CX5, CX9 – totally reliable, very little goes wrong with those to, so they’re great vehicles.
Mark: So Mazda, we touched on the pickup trucks, so how are they?
Bernie: Food, it’s funny we talked about pickups in past tense because I just realized that when I was doing a little research for this hangout that Mazda hasn’t made pickup trucks or sold them for a few years now, but overall they were awesome pickup trucks. For compact pickup trucks they were great, they were very durable. We even have customers today, that have small Mazda B22 pickup trucks that were build in the early ’90’s. It’s a four cylinder truck, really simple, most have wind up windows and a lot of them don’t even have power steering, people just seem to hang on to them, they just keep going and going. We’ve had quite a few brought in for ring and valve jobs on the engines and then they tend to burn oil but they just keep on going and going. So excellent trucks. As I mentioned, the Ford Ranger used to be a Mazda truck as well. So great trucks. If you want to buy a brand new one, you won’t be buying it from Mazda anymore.
Mark: So I guess the conversation about Mazda is never complete without talking about the infamous bongo rotary engine.
Bernie: Yup, so the rotary engine was’t Mazda’s invention, but in the late ’60’s and early ’70’s, seized upon the technology and ran with it as a good way to differentiate their brand from the other Japanese manufacturers and they stuck with it for quite a while. In the early ’70’s, they had a huge variety of cars and even a pickup truck with a rotary engine, but that soon died out. The rotary is not the most efficient engine, they tend to burn oil and they fail kind of quickly. Now they’ve certainly improved that but they’re still not a great engine. We work on a fair number of Mazda RX8, although there isn’t a lot of them on the road, we seem to see a fair number of them at our shop. They’re pretty good cars, but I mean the engines do tend to fail at an earlier age and I really wouldn’t want to keep one with much more than a hundred thousand kilometres. Repairing the engine on them is a highly specialized item, Mazda is probably the only people actually sell the engine. So you don’t want to get caught with one of those with an engine failure.
The RX8 seems to be fairly reliable up until the point when the engine wears out. Speaking of rotaries, they no longer make them around 2012 was the last year they made the rotary so that’s moved into the annals of automotive history now and I can’t imagine what the success of the engine that it’s going to come back anytime soon.
Mark: So Mazda, their advertising talks a lot about SKYACTIV technology which is something about fuel efficient cars. So what’s that all about?
Bernie: Yeah, so that’s where Mazda has focused a lot of their energy, their so called SKYACTIV technology and what it is, is redesigned engines and specifically fuel injection systems where they use direct gasoline injection which is quite popular in a lot of other cars. It’s basically the same kind of injection system that has been used on diesels for a long time. It just give gasoline engines an incredible extra amount of efficiency. We haven’t actually worked on a SKYACTIV Mazda because they are still fairly new but I think over the years they’re going to be as reliable as the other Mazdas. The fuel efficiency numbers that they claim are pretty much up there with hybrids, and the great thing about that is you don’t have the complexity that you have with a hybrid – all the extra electrical and electronic devices that potentially can go wrong. Fortunately hybrids have proved to be pretty reliable but you know when things go wrong they can be insanely expensive to fix.
It’s funny, when I was driving into work this morning I passed to Mazdas and they both were SKYACTIV vehicles so they’re really popular.
Mark: So any last thoughts on Mazda?
Bernie: Overall they’re great cars. They seem to have focused their market away from the obscure vehicles like the rotary and the pickup truck – they just focus now on cars and compact sport utility vehicles. Overall very reliable. I would not hesitate to recommend any of them except a RX8, unless you absolutely loved having a rotary vehicle.
One thing we didn’t talk about is the MX5 or the Miata which is I think an awesome car. If you like little sports cars, it’s a great car. I’ve often thought of it as an English sports car that has been built properly and reliable because those cars certainly weren’t at one time. So those are my thoughts on Mazda.
Great cars, very reliable, especially the Mazda 3 is all you can ask out of a car – it starts up every day and takes you where you want to go at minimal cost.
Mark: Great, so we’ve been talking with Mr. Bernie Pawlik at Pawlik Automotive – again they’re 14 time winners of Best Auto Repair in Vancouver. If you’re looking for a great place to maintain your vehicle, these are the guys to call. You can reach them at 604-327-7112 or go to their website – www.pawlikautomotive.com – it’s a world authority on auto repair. Thanks Bernie
Today’s featured repair is starter motor replacement on a 2006 Toyota T100 pickup truck, brought to us by a client from Kerrisdale, Vancouver.
1996 Toyota T100, still a good looking and very reliable truck at almost 20 years old
Toyota has been building pickup trucks for years and they have proven to be among the most reliable on the road. This 1996 truck, now almost 20 years old still runs great and looks good to boot. One reason for it still being on the road is the maintenance and care that it has received through its life. Clearly, good attentive service pays off.
Our featured Toyota T100 came to the shop with a couple of concerns and one was a grinding sound from the starter. The truck started fine but there was definately something wrong. Upon removing the starter the cause of the noise was very evident: the starter drive gear was severely worn.
Whenever a starter drive gear is found damaged a thorough inspection of the ring gear is required. The ring gear is a large gear mounted on the engine flywheel or flex plate that turns with the engine. When your key is turned to start, the starter drive gear engages with the ring gear. Many times when a starter grinds the noise is caused by a worn ring gear. It is an expensive repair requiring removal of either the engine or transmission.
Fortunately for our client his ring gear was in good condition. We replaced the starter motor and no further noises were present.
Starter motor from our featured Toyota T100. The blue arrow points to the severely damaged drive gear. When the key is turned to start the solenoid, which is located in the square section of the starter pushes the drive gear into the engine's ring gear and then the starter turns your engine over.
http://pawlikautomotive.com Bernie Pawlik of award winning Pawlik Automotive in Vancouver, BC is talking us through a Suburu Head Gasket repair, and why this is something most Suburu owners will encounter. Pawlik Automotive has been 14 times voted as best auto repair shop in Vancouver, BC.
Mark: Good Morning. It’s Mark from Top Local Lead Generation. We’re here with Mr. Bernie Pawlik of Pawlik Automotive. They’re 14 time winners of Best Auto Repair Shop in Vancouver. How’re you doing today Bernie?
Bernie: Doing really well.
Mark: So we’re going to talk about Subaru head gasket repairs, so all over to you.
Bernie: Awesome. Well Subaru head gaskets are something we do quite a lot of at Pawlik Automotive and if you own a Subaru with the 2.5 liter four cylinder engine which most cars come with you’ll probably have to deal with the head gasket at some point in your time of owning the car so let’s have a look at a few things. I’ll explain why, where the head gaskets leak from and a few different issues about the head gasket and you can kind of get more of a sense of what goes on with these cars.
So the first thing I’m going to do is share an image, when it comes up, let me know when you see it Mark.
Mark: There it is.
Bernie: Are we there, perfect, good. So that’s a top view of a Subaru engine around a 2000, 2000 model year Forester, 2.5 litre engine. That’s the top view of the intake manifold that runs across the top those nice bright blue things are your spark plug wires, the alternator sits in the front, it’s the wire to the alternator’s got the nice red, bright red cap on it, so that’s basically the top of the engine. Now the head gaskets are down lower, kind of where those blue wires they kind of lead off the side, those go towards the cylinder heads. So what happens typically with Subaru cylinder heads, can you see that image Mark?
Mark: I can see it now
Bernie: Perfect. So this is the underside of the engine kind of a close up view of where the cylinder head gasket meets the engine, so the bright blue arrow that actually points right to where the cylinder head gasket is located and to the right of that is the cylinder head itself. Now the red arrow points to an oil leak and that’s typically what happens with Subaru head gaskets, they leak oil. Sometimes they’ll leak coolant as well and the cylinder head gasket is a very complex gasket, it seals the combustion pressures of the engine. It also seals oil and it seals coolant so there’s a lot going on and there’s an extremely high temperature so it works, the head gasket works really hard. Anyway so the red arrow, that’s the most important thing to look at, that’s where, that’s an oil leak coming out of the cylinder head gasket. You know, typically they can start off very slowly and not much to worry about but after a while they can become quite severe to the point of dripping a lot of oil on the ground.
So moving onto our next image, this is the actual cylinder head gasket removed from an engine that had a leak. The few arrows there point to various things; the red arrows all point to where the cylinder head bolt holes go, the very large holes in the middle, that’s where the pistons basically sit in the valves, that’s the combustion chamber of the engine. The green arrows point to coolant passageways so antifreeze flows through those while the engine’s running and that helps keep your engine cool and from overheating and I only pointed a couple of those passageways out and then the blue arrows point to usually where the problems with the head gaskets lie and if you look on the left side you can see all that black materials basically flaked off. The way cylinders Subaru head gaskets are made its typically a metal gasket and then they have some type of, I wouldn’t say it’s rubberized but it’s a type of coating and the coating through the heat and the cooling process it did, basically deteriorates after time and that’s when it starts to leak oil so typically those large passageways on the bottom will leak oil and that’s basically just the oil returning back to the bottom of the engine, it’s not under any pressure but its, you know it leaks over time. So that’s your head gasket that you’ll probably experience if you own a Subaru at some point. That’s kind of what it looks like when it’s old and taken apart. Just a view, this is what the cylinder head itself looks like from the inside of the engine. This particular engine had pretty high mileage and we actually had the valves redone on the cylinder head because it had, there’s a lot if you look on the left side, those are the valves and the combustion chamber, you can see a lot of blackish thick deposit and if you compare that to what you see on the right hand side there’s a lot of oil getting into that particular cylinder so we had the heads, the valves reground on this particular head and everything cleaned up.
Normally we don’t need to do that, there’s a variety of things that need to be done on Subaru head gaskets, sometimes it’s just a simple matter of changing the gaskets, the head bolts and it’s done, other times the work is a little bit more thorough.
Okay, so moving on, so that’s the cylinder head, just another example the items on the top, the two round pieces on the top, those are the exhaust valves and then the larger ones below are the intake valves and the round thing in the middle, that’s your spark plug. The head gasket goes around, sits if you can imagine from the last picture and I’ll click it on again so can kind of have an idea, that’s the head gasket, that’s the cylinder head. You can see there’s a correlation between holes and that’s how it all works.
Just another view of the top of the Subaru engine, this is with the intake manifold off and this is a job where we had the new head gaskets in, we’re putting it back together so the red arrows point to where the intake manifold bolts on and the actual red arrow actually points to the cylinder heads themselves. The blue arrows point to the timing belt cover and that’s a picture we’ll go into in a second. I just also want to reference that the green arrow which points to the, that’s a coolant pipe which, engine coolant flows through that pipe to the engine block. There are a couple seals in there, we always replace them, they rarely leak but while we’re doing the head gaskets its’ a simple extra jobs so those are some of things we do when we’re in doing a cylinder head gasket job to make sure it’s thorough; six dollars for some gaskets and a couple minutes of labour so it’s well worth doing while everything’s apart.
So the other big component on the Subaru and they can be an expensive maintenance item is the timing belt. These generally last about a hundred sixty thousand kilometers, you can probably push them a little longer, I wouldn’t recommend it because if it breaks pistons and valves collide and it costs a lot of money to fix. So it’s best to do it at a hundred sixty thousand kilometers interval. These, I basically show all the components we normally change when we do the timing belt. The blue arrows point idler pulley, so the timing belt runs along these pulleys and there are bearings inside the pulleys so we always change them because they’re worn, you never know when they’re going to fail and it’s best to make sure they’re all new. The green arrow points to the hydraulic tensioning unit, now it also has a pulley that can wear but it has an oil filled high pressure tensioning unit and it’s critical that keeps proper pressure on the timing belt. The light blue arrow points to the water pump. Again we replace these when we do the timing belt because A. it’s driven by the timing belt and if the bearing were to fail then it would damage the timing belt and cause the whole thing to break apart plus the water pump can leak so it’s best to change it when the timing belt is due and the last black arrow points to I’m not sure if that’s a crank shaft or cam shaft seal but there’s two cam shaft seals and a crank shaft seal, we always replace those when we do the timing belt.
So just kind of getting back to just a question you may have in your mind is well, what if I take really good care of my can, can I prevent the timing belt or sorry can I prevent the head gaskets from leaking and the timing belt is a given, it needs to be done at a hundred sixty thousand kilometers no matter how you drive. Can I prevent the head gaskets from failing and the answer is unfortunately no, it’s just the design maybe we’ll call it a defect which is just a design of the Subaru engine will typically cause the head gaskets will fail and you need to replace them.
So that’s hopefully gives you some ideas about what is involved with the head gaskets on a Subaru; as I said we do a lot of them at Pawlik Automotive, we’ve got some pretty good expertise on doing them. If you ever have any question you can reach us at 604-327-7112. Anything further to add Mark?
Mark: No. Thanks Bernie. Very thorough with lots of detail on how or why it takes so much time, why it’s a big job to change the head gaskets on the Subaru and possibly even why, you can see where the bolts are and where they aren’t so maybe that’s the reason why they fail. So we’ve been talking with Mr. Bernie Pawlik of Pawlik Automotive. You can learn more at Pawlikautomotive.com or to book your next appointment. Give them a call 604-327-7112 Thanks Bernie
Today’s featured repair is replacement of the transmission hydraulic unit on a 2006 BMW M6.
2006 BMW M6
The 2006 BMW M6 is an awesome car, featuring a V10 engine coupled to a Getrag SMG III semi automatic transmission.
Trying to combine the best of both worlds this transmission has a clutch but no clutch pedal and has no conventional standard transmission gearshifter. You can choose to shift it yourself by moving a shifter handle or clicking paddle shifters on the steering wheel. You can also set it to automatic and allow the computer to do the shifting for you.
This all happens compliments of a hydraulic control unit that mounts on the top and side of the transmission. Large solenoids take the place of the shifter handle and the clutch is operated by an electronically controlled hydraulic slave cylinder. All of these components are serviced as a single assembly: when one part breaks, the whole unit must be replaced.
This was the service that was required on our M6. The clutch worked fine but the transmission would not shift gears. As you might guess the hydraulic unit was extremely expensive (many thousands of dollars). We were fortunately able to source a good used unit. Replacement involved removing the transmission which provided access to the hydraulic unit. It was a time consuming job but reasonably straight forward as the hydraulic assembly bolts onto an essentially manual transmission.
After repairs a road test was performed and everything functioned well.
We work on a wide variety of cars and trucks at our shop and always appreciate a road test in a fine high-end sports car. This BMW unfortunately was a huge disappointment. In spite of the 507 horsepower monster engine the car really lacked the get up and go that we expected, and much of that can be attributed to the semi automatic transmission. The delay between shifts really affects the thrill and performance of this car. A regular manual or an automatic transmission would be far superior.
Top and left side view of the semi automatic transmission. The red arrows point to the solenoid unit on top of the transmission. These connect to the transmission shift rods. Yellow arrow points to the clutch slave cylinder & green arrow points to the hydraulic reservoir. These parts are all included with the hydraulic unit.
Our latest feature is a B Service performed on a near new 2013 Mercedes-Benz GL350, brought to us by a client from Coal Harbour, Vancouver.
2013 Mercedes-Benz GL350
The 2013 GL350 is a beautiful and practical diesel powered crossover sport utility vehicle loaded with all of the features that one would expect from high end German manufacturer.
A Mercedes-Benz B service consists of an engine oil and filter change, tire rotation and a full, thorough inspection of the entire vehicle. This vehicle features a BlueTEC diesel which is Mercedes-Benz’s trademarked name for their ultra-low emission diesel engine.
Like many modern diesels it requires a special diesel exhaust fluid which is also replenished during this maintenance service. Diesel exhaust fluid, also known as AdBlue is used for NOx emission reduction and provides the extra edge that keeps modern diesels running so clean.
Some folks have expressed concerns about the additional cost of DEF, however it is a very minimal expense if purchased aftermarket. If you buy it from the dealer you will usually pay a lot more, and there is no difference. DEF has a standardized ISO spec: it is 32.5% pure urea and 67.5% deionized water.
From a visual perspective this engine looks the same as those offered since the late 2000’s however it is quieter and with the additional exhaust emission equipment has none of that horrible sooty, stinky exhaust from diesels of the past. With the exception of the incredible fuel mileage you can barely tell that it’s a diesel.
Engine compartment of GL350. The dusty plastic cover hides the very high tech BlueTEC diesel engine