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Timing Belt Replacement The Right Way

Audi Timing Belt replacement parts

Recently we had a 2000 Isuzu Trooper in our shop that had a whirring noise coming from the front of the engine.

What we discovered was causing the noise was worn out camshaft drive gears located inside the cylinder head: a layout rather unique to Isuzu. We also discovered 2 worn out timing belt pulley bearings.

This vehicle has 200,000 kilometers on the clock and just 20,000 kilometers previous, the timing belt was replaced at another shop. They had only replaced the timing belt and not changed any front engine oil seals, the water pump, tensioners or idler pulleys.

Audi Timing Belt replacement parts

Above are all the parts required to do a proper timing belt service on a 2003 Audi 3 litre V6 engine. For this service it requires: 4 Camshaft seals, 4 camshaft o-rings, 1 front crankshaft seal, 2 valve cover gaskets, 2 idler pulleys, 1 water pump, 1 tensioner pulley, 1 tension adjuster and finally 1 timing belt.

To do a proper timing belt replacement – all of these parts should be replaced, for if one fails, the whole job needs to be done again!

This was the case with our Isuzu. How often does that happen? Quite frequently!We have had numerous vehicles where the belt alone has been done only to have it oil soaked in a year or two; or seen the water pump fail 6 months after the timing belt was replaced.

The cost to replace all of the required parts is more expensive up front but if the job needs to be redone even within two or three years this makes the first job a waste of money. The best way, and ultimately the least expensive way is to do it right and that means complete the first time.

Call us to book your appointment and get your car ready for the heavy snow that’s coming…

Small Bearings Can Create Huge Problems

Bearing that could have seized at any moment

Regular Maintenance of your Automobile is almost 50% Less Expense Than Waiting For A Breakdown

Yes even my car is not immune to parts wearing out.

For about a week or so I noticed a subtle but unusual noise coming from my 2001 Subaru Outback H6’s engine. Unlike some I could name… I decided to check into what the noise was about.

I suspected that it might be a drivebelt pulley; and through diagnosis I found that the serpentine belt tensioner pulley bearing was severely worn.

After removal, the seriousness of the situation became evident: the bearing was so badly worn that it was hours or with luck perhaps days from seizing up and causing the belt to fail. The good news is that it was a very inexpensive repair!

The lesson here is that every unusual sound in your vehicle should be investigated. It is always cheaper to repair early than wait for the part to fail completely.

Bearing that could have seized at any moment

The worn out pulley bearing. The black particles are from inside the bearing!

To celebrate our latest “Best of Vancouver” win and to thank our customers, we’re offering $30 off our Gold Level 2 service and comprehensive inspection – until November 30, 2010.

Make sure your car or truck is reliable for the winter.

Finding an Electrical Short

Bare Wire that was Shorting

Finding the cause of a fuse that blows constantly can be a time consuming task, one involving a skilled technician and a methodical approach.

Today we serviced a rare 1994 Chevrolet Van equipped with a 6.5 litre Diesel.

Our client¹s concern was that his gauges stopped working along with the glow plug lamp on the dash. He replaced the gauge fuse only to have it blow again within seconds. When a fuse blows like this it is doing its job by protecting the circuit, preventing damage to electrical components and ultimately your vehicle which could catch fire from burning wires.

John started his diagnosis by printing out a wiring diagram of the circuit. Armed with this information he could see which components were involved.

This circuit covers a number of items: the gauges on the instrument panel, part of the glow plug controller and 2 EGR valve solenoids.

Wiring extends from the fuse box to the instrument panel, to the front of the engine compartment and to the engine itself. This leaves many places to inspect: where to start first? Wisely, and based upon years of experience John chose to start with the engine area. The EGR solenoids & glow plug timer were disconnected but still the fuse popped.

Worn Wire Loom or Harness

Worn Wire Loom or Harness

To keep our story short, the cause was found to be a very small wire from the main engine wiring harness which was rubbing against the right rear corner of the engine block. John noted that the protective wiring covering was slightly damaged: looking inside revealed the chaffed wire. That’s what it takes to find a short: knowledge of the circuit, a methodical inspection, and a skilled technician with a keen eye.
Bare Wire that was Shorting

Bare Wire was Shorting

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